Navigating Traffic in Vietnam with Kids
"Walk at a steady, predictable pace, don't make any sudden or unexpected movements and traffic will make its way around you"
There is so much to say about traffic in Vietnam, some positive, some negative, but so much.
We travelled with our four and six year old kids in Vietnam to 2019. We started in Ho Chi Minh City and ended in Hanoi. Traffic in Vietnam is mind boggling. As Westerners, we couldn’t help but comment on the craziness every time we got in a cab. Vietnamese traffic is as close to chaos as we’ve ever experienced (traffic in India came close – but this was a true winner). The rule seems to be: “if what I’m about to do might result in an injury to someone, I’ll slow down (but still do it)”. There’s no such thing as “not enough space” and “right of way” flows in opposing, constantly changing directions.
There are 12 million people in Ho Chi Minh City. There are 8 million motorcycles. This obviously results in jam packed roads where inches separate wheels from bumpers. The rules of the road are extremely fluid, bordering on non-existent. Riding on the wrong side of the road, into oncoming traffic is commonplace. Red lights command very little respect and are adhered to only if the flow of traffic has already cut off the clear passage of the driver. If the plan is to ride through a red light once the opposing traffic has started moving, the rule seems to be “lean on your horn”.
All but the busiest intersections have no traffic lights, and the swarms of motorbikes maneuver through on a first-come, first-through system (unless you’re blasting your horn, in which case, as mentioned above, you’re just plowing through with a prayer). We don’t recommend you drive in Vietnam but if you choose to, here is one rule we learned. When making a right or a left turn, select a turning lane at your leisure and keep a constant speed so that anyone you are cutting off has time to react and avoid you. The same rules apply to crossing the road as a pedestrian: keep a constant speed and keep moving so that motorbikes can go around you. Any unexpected moves or stopping in the middle of the road is actually more dangerous than just confidently moving forward.
This is all made that much more interesting (dangerous?) by motorcycles carrying canisters of gas, live poultry, bamboo fish traps, a family of five, you name it. Officially, only three (!) people are allowed on a motorcycle, but the police do not enforce this law because it’s understood that families often can only afford one motorcycle. Four on a motorcycle isn’t unusual. Five is less common, though usually one of the five is an infant.
Learning as We Go
At first, we found traffic in Vietnam frustrating and overwhelming. But then with time, we got used to it and found ourselves to be more amazed by it. Surprisingly, during our month in Vietnam, we only saw one motorcycle accident where a Westerner on a motorbike slipped while riding in the rain. He almost plowed into us, but we got lucky. Unfortunately, the two Vietnamese women behind us were less fortunate and they took the brunt of his fall.
There are some positive things to say about traffic in Vietnam. In Canada, if someone gets “cut off” or even rides the merging lane too long, they get choice words or a one finger salute. Many Canadians get offended by rude drivers. This does not happen in Vietnam. No one seems to mind getting cut off. No one has any noticeable sense of entitlement. Everyone just eventually gets through this madness and in so doing, if you cut someone off, you move on. Literally. It’s much more of a collective agreement to share the roads, look out for yourself, keep peripheral vision on high alert, and everyone gets through it.
You'll never understand it, but you may get used to it
Don’t get us wrong, that’s about all we can say under the ‘positive’ heading. Traffic in Vietnam is dangerous, annoying and frustrating and the constant frantic chaos does get exhausting especially when traveling with kids.
On our last day in Hanoi we saw a police officer pull over a local driver for not wearing a helmet and running a red light. The driver was visibly annoyed for being pulled over. While he was pulled over, at least 20 other offences passed by unnoticed, including one motorcycle riding by on the sidewalk – also an extremely common occurrence.
It’s difficult to adequately capture this incredible chaos that is Vietnamese traffic. Some may feel that we are embellishing and over exaggerating. We are not. As I write this article on our way to the airport, every time I look up from my writing, a new violation is taking place and I am amazed that we haven’t run over or into something. But we haven’t, and we don’t. And everyone just gets through it. Somehow.
Additional considerations
Need to get around anywhere in Vietnam? Here’s how to do it:
- Grab. This is the Vietnamese ride-sharing system. Like Uber.
- Book a motorcycle tour and leave the driving to the pros. This company employs a fleet of female drivers for their safer riding habits and can take you on a sight-seeing tour, while you marvel at the chaos from the backseat of a motorcycle
- Walk. Locals are extremely friendly and you will not be able to go anywhere without meeting a new friend who would love to talk about your trip and their city.
Book a flight to Ho Chi Mihn City
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